Two Stage Nitrous System for the Dodge Viper 1992-1999.
Dyno tested at the rear wheels 745.6rwhp - 884rwtq
We had to place 450 lbs. of weight in the trunk to keep
it from spinning on the dyno.

Note: If you plan on using a system with this much power,
I highly recommend the BMR drive shaft loop and UniTrax
half shafts (VSP series if you can afford them).

This information is placed here purely for entertainment only.
Use of this information is solely at your own risk.
I am not responsible for anything contained here in, or any
damage caused by the use of anything listed herein.

This image shows the cockpit setup.

A. The Primary Arming switch is the right hand
Lamp button on the console beneath the Stereo.
This button is not normally used on vipers.

B. The bright aluminum switch panel between the center
console and the drivers seat is the stage selection
panel and is easily mounted to the console. Since I
have not decide where the best spot is as of yet, I
just left it tucked there.

C. The lit gauge under the dash is the nitrous bottle pressure
gauge. It illuminates and functions only when the primary arming
switch is on. This keeps the distractions to a minimum while not
using the nitrous. (Auto Meter)

D. The Red horn Buttons on the steering wheel are the firing switch.
Either one of these pressed when the system is armed triggers the
Nitrous Shots to fire. If only one stage is armed, then only that 
stage fires. However if both Stage-1 and Stage-2 are armed, Stage-1
fires and Stage-2 is triggered off an Auto-Rod Control Timer Relay.

This image shows the under Dash setup.

The button to the left of the Nitrous pressure gauge (A)
is the Nitrous Express Bottle opener (B) trigger for those
moments when you get to play.

This image shows the Nitrous components from the center
of the Intake looking forward to the front of the engine
compartment.

A. At the very bottom, the braided steel lines with the pressure switch 
are plumbed in to the factory fuel crossover from one side of the motor
to the other. Vipers use a fuel cut off for the rev-limiter, and under a
shot of nitrous this can cost you a motor. Show this NOS pressure safety
switch controls the ground to the nitrous solenoids. If the Fuel pressure
drops below 45 psi the Nitrous shuts off.

B. The single blue fittings tapped into each air tube are connected to stage 1.
These feed nitrous oxide only, and are a dry shot. This shot triggers a module
that passes a full 5volt single to the engine coolant temp. line back to the
computer. This causes the computer to bump up the fuel feed to the engine at
wide open throttle resulting in a 125hp - 155tq gain.

C. The NOS Fogger nozzles connected to each air tube are stage 2. 
This is a wet shot fed by the independent fuel system I will show
you a little later. This shot can be set to as much as 400hp.
Note: The bigger the shot the faster you run out of fuel and Nitrous.

D. This is the Crossmember in front of the engine. A billet bracket is
bolted here and holds the Nitrous solenoids. I used NOS Cheater solenoids
for both stages.

E. This is the relay block that handles the firing and safety controls.
They are mounted directly to the cross member, Hela Relays were used for
their reliability in areas where water can get on the electronics.

This image shows the Stage two fuel system.
A. This is a 1 Quart JAZ fuel cell bolted to the wheel well
using a custom built billet Aluminum bracket.

B. This is a standard 3/8in off the shelf fuel filter.

C. This is the return line from the fuel block. Without
this, the fuel pump can quickly over heat.

D. This is an MSD fuel injection pump. This is the most reliable
small pump we could find. Anything bigger is just a waste.

This image shows the Stage two fuel system.

A. This is a Mallory Return style Fuel pressure regulator.
This keeps the fuel pressure consistent. This is a must for
proper tuning.

B. This is the Stage-2 fuel pressure safety switch. It maintains
a safety margin in case the fuel pump fails, or the fuel runs out,
the Nitrous to Stage-2 is cut off.

C. This is a custom billet fuel block. The system could have been
built without it, but this is a cleaner install which allows more
accessories to be cleanly plugged in.

D. This is the wide open throttle trigger switch. These means even
if fuel pressure is good, the throttle must be wide open for the
nitrous to fire. I chose a mechanical over a TPS triggered switch
because of problems I had in the past with the TPS switches throwing
computer error codes when the system was not on. I have since seen 
TPS triggered switches from NOS that work fine.

This image shows the trunk setup.

A. This is the NX Bottle Opener. I chose this over the NOS because
in the past the NOS opener simply goes inline and has a tendency to 
chatter under high nitrous demand. The NX opener simply turns the valve,
and is not mounted inline. It is however a little more trouble to hook up.

B. This a standard NOS bottle pressure gauge. Recommended for glancing
at your bottle pressure when your not in the car.

C. This is the Nitrous gauge sending unit (Auto Meter).

D. This is the bottle heater.

NOTE: To control everything on the nitrous system in the trunk, I had to
run a total of 6 wires to the trunk. Two for the bottle opener, three for
the nitrous pressure sending unit, and one for the bottle heater. For the 
heavy power on the bottle heater, I tapped into the heavy power for the 
Factory power amps.

This image shows the complete wiring diagram for triggering the nitrous
shots. Relays labeled 1-5 are under the hood on the cross member. All other
relays are under the dash. I built the entire system for around $2,000, including
all custom parts and the bottle opener and remote nitrous gauge. You can save around
$600 without those little toys. The system can handle around 450hp Shots of nitrous.
The most I have tried so far is around 330 hp shots.


As far as tuning goes, tune it on the dyno. Be safe not sorry, and shoot for richer
and more torque, not leaner and more HP. Lets face it, horsepower is nice, but torque
is what moves your heavy butt down the quarter mile. In fact, I have seen huge jumps in
torque running a fuel ratio of 11:1 with only a minimal horsepower drop. NOS recommends
12.5:1, but that is just to lean for my blood. Use 110 octane or higher in the Stage-2
fuel cell. This pretty much covers what you will need. 

I am a nitrous freak, and some people will say nitrous is too dangerous. To those people,
I say the following. "Don't use nitrous, you lack the knowledge to keep it safe." 
For those who would venture down my path, I have 50K miles on my Viper and I continue
to go faster. I had the Nitrous setup inhand before I even got the Viper. It has lived
it's entire life with nitrous. I am out there making your Viper's reputation known, pounding
most anything on the road into a memory in my mirror. Don't be surprised if no one will play
with you, because we Nitrous Snakes are out there lurking, just waiting for the next victim.